Docking

You can tie your boat up to a dock, a pier or a wharf and the termi­nol­ogy is regional, differing from place to place. Usually a wharf runs parallel to the shore, a pier runs perpen­dic­ular to the shore, and a dock is a pier where you can, well, dock a boat. The place where a single boat docks is called a slip.

You cannot dock too slowly. The reason for this is that you cannot hit the dock, or another boat, too gently. Slow down, using reverse if necessary, until the boat is moving no faster than is needed to maintain steerage way. Do not lose so much headway that you can no longer steer the boat. If the wind or current is moving toward the dock, let it push you in. If it is off the dock, plan to use it in the event that you must head off and try again.

Well before approaching, lay out two dock lines forward, two aft and two amidship. Have handy also a heaving line of double braid, strong enough to haul the boat but light enough to throw a good distance. Lines should be as long as possible with the understanding that they must not foul the prop and you can heave a line only about 20 feet. Lay out boat hooks forward and aft. Lay out fenders, but do not rig them overboard until you know for certain that you will not need them elsewhere.

Beware of helpers on the dock, even if they are employed at the marina. Having a hand on the dock is of great benefit, but only until they do something unexpected, whether rightly or wrongly.

Remember, also, that you cannot push on a line. If you are going to hit something, you must attach a line on the opposite side of the boat, where you can pull off from that object, or else deploy a fender.

Lastly but most important, when docking, as at all other times, never put any part of your body between the boat and a solid object, be it a piling, the dock or another boat.

Layout of the boat’s dock cleats might make it difficult to tie up after backing in. Stern dock lines should cross the transom to the opposite side, and thereby place the tugging load more perpen­dic­ular to the cleat, rather than tending to pull it up out of the deck, but this might not be possible if the crossed line will chafe against the transom, rail or fittings.

Breast lines at the bow and stern prevent motion from side to side. They deal mainly with wind. Spring lines prevent moving forward and backward. They deal mainly with tide and current. Under many conditions the paired spring lines do most of the work.

Dock lines should be nylon, because stretch is wanted to relieve tugging strains, and it is usually single braided. For boats up to 30 ft, use ½-in line. From 30 to 40 ft, use 5/8-in line. From 40 to 70 ft, use ¾-in line. Avoid oversize line that might not stretch enough.

Breast lines are usually about 2/3 of the boat length and spring lines are the full length of the boat. Dock lines tend to chafe through quickly and need some sort of chafe protection. A length of stout hose or tubing, larger than the line and drilled for twine at both ends, works as well as anything. Keep it in place by tying the twine securely to the dock line.

For most sailboats, four fenders is a good compromise between having enough and ease of stowing. As a rough rule for fender size, allow about one inch of diameter for every four to five feet of boat length. Heavy boats can move up at least one size.

Fenders protect the hull only when properly placed. The fender’s center should be at the height of the dock edge or expected contact point. Rig fenders at various heights before docking and then raise or lower them once the boat is secured.

An inflatable fender should be firm enough to hold its shape but not rock hard. It should compress when pushed firmly while still having some give to absorb impact and it should always keep its intended diameter. Overinflation reduces cushioning, stresses seams and valves and may cause the fender to bounce or slide. Underinflation allows it to flatten and may let the hull contact the dock. Many inflatable fenders take only a few pounds per square inch: An automotive tire pressure gauge might not read them accurately.

Attach the fender line to a stanchion, perforated toerail, shroud or cleat using a round turn and two half hitches or else special fender adjusters. Avoid tying heavy fenders to delicate lifelines. A highly compressed fender can place a surprisingly large load on the attachment point. Fender lines should be strong, easy to handle and resistant to chafe. About 3/8-inch braided line is the most common.

Against a floating dock, vertical fenders work well because the dock and the boat rise and fall together with the tide. Against fixed pilings or a seawall, horizontal fenders are better and might have to be repositioned with the tide.

When rafting up with another boat, use your largest and best fenders and place them at points where the hulls meet. Do not assume the other boat will have enough.

A fender board is used against pilings or rough seawalls. Pilings can roll around fenders. The board bridges the gap between and across them. To make one, hang two sturdy fenders vertically and hang a strong plank horizontally between them so that the board—not the hull—takes all the abuse.

Fender covers improve appearance and reduce squeaking, but dirty covers can trap grit and act like sandpaper. Dirty fenders are no better.

Fenders dangling outside the hull while underway look untidy, increase windage, can be lost and might snag something. Bring them aboard promptly after leaving the dock.

Fenders will not compensate for poor dock line handling. If the boat surges several feet along a dock in wind or wake, the fenders can roll away or be squeezed out. Spring lines are especially important to keep the boat from grinding back and forth, which will displace or destroy its fenders.

Hang a propeller de-icer slightly below keel depth but well above any mud or weeds on the bottom that might clog it. Use a rope, not the electrical cord. Aim it toward the boat and especially the rudder without letting it direct a steady stream at one part of the hull, which can cause blisters.

Notify the marina or harbormaster and check local rules. Creating open water can lead to liability and might be regulated. Plug the unit into a GFCI circuit to avoid electrocuting a diver.

Marinas range from small, family-operated sites with a few dozen slips to enormous developments with hundreds or even thousands of boats. Some are little more than docks with electricity and water. Others are like resorts with restaurants, swimming pools, repair yards and extensive shoreside services. Some have fields of mooring balls that are easier to use and less expensive than docks.

Mooring vs Anchoring vs Marina

For sailboats, choosing a marina involves tradeoffs that powerboat owners don’t face: mast height, keel depth, maneuverability under power and the effects of wind on a sailboat’s greater freeboard and its rigging. The advertised water depth may be the depth at the dock rather than the controlling depth of the marina entrance or fairway. A boat drawing six feet might not be unable to reach a slip shown as having eight feet of water if the entrance channel is only five feet deep.

Look closely at the marina’s contract and storm plan. Some require all boats to leave when a named storm threatens. Others allow boats to remain but prohibit owners from staying aboard. Floating docks can rise off their pilings if storm surge exceeds the pilings’ height. Fixed docks are likely to be submerged. Dock lines can break as rising water lifts a boat. Even a well-sheltered marina might suffer catastrophic damage in an extreme storm.

When choosing a marina, you might not have many options, especially for larger boats. The dockage contract matters almost as much as the marina itself. Many agreements tilt heavily in the marina’s favor, particularly concerning damage, storms, termination and liability. Pay particular attention to these provisions:

Term and cancellation. Is it month-to-month, seasonal or annual? Can you terminate early, and if so, what happens to prepaid rent? More importantly, can the marina terminate you, either with or without cause? Look for automatic renewal and notice deadlines.

Exactly what you’re renting. Ideally, the contract identifies the slip and states the maximum boat size allowed. Can the marina move your boat to another slip without your permission?

Dockage fee. Most marinas charge per foot of the boat’s actual length overall (LOA). Others use the slip length, or whichever of the two is greater. Do bowsprits, pulpits, swim platforms, davits, dinghies and anchors count toward LOA?

Extra charges. Look beyond the advertised slip rate. Electricity, water, pump-outs, parking, gate cards, liveaboard fees, environmental fees, taxes, cable TV, Internet and hurricane preparation can add substantially to the bill. Is electricity metered or a flat monthly charge?

Rate increases. Especially in an annual agreement, look for language allowing the marina to change rates or impose new fees during the contract term.

Insurance requirements. Most marinas require liability insurance and may specify a minimum amount. Must the marina be named as an “additional insured”? Also check requirements for wreck removal, pollution liability and salvage.

Indemnification and liability waivers. Read these very carefully. Some contracts try to make the boat owner responsible for virtually anything that happens while simultaneously disclaiming marina responsibility for theft, fire, dock failure, employee negligence, storms, power problems, etc. Broad language such as “release,” “defend,” “indemnify” and “hold harmless” deserves particular attention.

Hurricane provisions. Are you required to remove the boat when a named storm approaches? If so, when does that obligation begin and what happens if you are unable to move it? Can the marina move, haul or secure it at your expense? Must you continue paying dockage while an evacuation order prevents you from using the slip?

Marina’s right to board or move the boat. Some authority is reasonable for emergencies. Be cautious about language giving the marina unrestricted authority to board, operate, tow or haul your boat and then charge you for doing so.

Damage caused by other boats. Know what happens if another tenant damages your boat or a poorly secured neighboring boat breaks loose during a storm. The marina will commonly disclaim responsibility, making insurance particularly important.

Repairs and outside contractors. Some marinas prohibit outside mechanics, divers, riggers or other contractors, or require contractors to provide insurance certificates and pay a fee. Determine what maintenance you’re allowed to perform yourself at the slip.

Liveaboard and occupancy restrictions. Even if you don’t intend to live aboard, check how many consecutive nights you’re permitted to stay aboard. Some marinas distinguish between occasional overnight use and a liveaboard.

Utilities and shore power. Verify the electrical service available at the actual slip—whether 30A, 50A/125V, 50A/125-250V, etc.—and whether adapters are allowed. The contract might make you responsible for damage resulting from your shore-power equipment.

Parking and access. Is parking guaranteed and for how many cars? Can guests park? Will you have 24-hour access to the boat?

Subletting and guests. Check for restrictions on lending the boat, having guests aboard, chartering, Airbnb-type rentals or allowing another boat to use the slip.

Sale of the boat. Don’t assume that the slip transfers with the boat. Most marina agreements specifically prohibit this. Are you allowed to advertise the boat for sale at the marina and have brokers show it there?

Maritime lien provisions. Pay close attention to language giving the marina a lien on the vessel for unpaid dockage, utilities, repairs or other charges, as well as provisions concerning towing, storage or sale of an abandoned vessel.

Rules incorporated by reference. A contract might be only four or five pages long but also say that you agree to the marina’s separate Rules and Regulations, which the marina can change at any time. Get a copy and read it before signing.

Dispute provisions. Look for mandatory arbitration, waiver of jury trial, attorney-fee clauses; choice of law and venue; and time limits for making claims. A requirement that all disputes be handled somewhere far from the marina is particularly inconvenient. Look for anything resembling: Marina may terminate this agreement at any time, with or without cause, upon X days notice.

Come up on a mooring from downwind or down-current with short bursts in forward gear. As the bow nears the mooring, shift into neutral and coast. Use a burst in reverse if necessary and come to a complete stop with the pickup buoy alongside the bow, within comfortable reach of a crew member. Avoid running over the mooring ball, lest its pennant or chain get tangled in the propeller or keel. Never wrap a mooring line around your hand or try to hold a moving boat. Check that the mooring pennant is properly attached to the mooring ball, not merely to its pickup float.